Your driveway has a crack running across it, a sunken slab by the garage, or a corner that's spalling apart. Replacement runs $10,000 and up. Targeted repair is usually 20 to 40 percent of that and lasts. We've been fixing OC driveways for 45 years, from Mission Viejo to Newport Beach to Yorba Linda.
From homeowners across Orange County
"Concrete patio, tile walkways, and driveway. Cleaning, patching, recoloring. Three days, and they aced it all."
Read on Google"Driveway was getting cloudy and chipping. Vince came out multiple times and even made a video showing me how to maintain it."
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Call now or text photos of the surface. We can usually tell you the right starting point before scheduling an estimate.
Not every driveway repairs project needs the same finish. Here's how the common options compare so you can pick the right one for your space.
Crack Repair (Epoxy Injection) Structural epoxy injected into routed cracks to bond the slab back together. Used for cracks with structural significance or where the slab needs to behave as one piece again.
Slabjacking/Polyjacking Expanding polyurethane foam injected under sunken slabs through small ports to lift them back to grade. Sets in 15 minutes, lighter than mudjacking, and the ports are nearly invisible after patching.
Saw-Cut Patch and Replace Damaged sections of slab are saw-cut to clean square edges, removed, and replaced with new color-matched concrete tied to the original with rebar dowels. Used when a section is broken beyond injection repair.
Joint Sealing and Re-Caulk Failed expansion and control joints are cleaned out, backer rod is installed, and a self-leveling polyurethane joint sealant rated for vehicle traffic is applied. Stops water from getting under the slab.
Resurfacing Overlay Polymer-modified concrete overlay (1/4 to 3/8 inch thick) applied over a structurally sound but cosmetically worn driveway. Hides cracks, spalling, and patch lines under a uniform new surface.
Full Decorative Overlay Stampable polymer overlay applied over the existing slab and finished with a stamp pattern (slate, ashlar, cobblestone) and integral color. Turns a plain or damaged driveway into a decorative feature without tear-out.
What working with us actually looks like
We walk the driveway, measure crack widths, check for elevation differences across joints, and look at the surrounding drainage and tree positions. Identifying why the failure happened is what tells us which repair method will hold.
Active cracks get routed to a clean V-groove and filled with polyurethane (flexible) or epoxy (structural) depending on the crack type. Failed control joints get cleaned out and re-caulked with a self-leveling polyurethane joint sealant rated for vehicle traffic.
Sunken sections get polyjacked back to grade by injecting expanding polyurethane foam through small 5/8-inch ports drilled in the slab. Spalled or broken zones get saw-cut to clean edges, removed, and replaced with a color-matched concrete patch tied to the original slab with rebar dowels.
Patch areas are textured to match the surrounding broom finish or stamp pattern. The entire driveway gets a penetrating siloxane sealer that blocks moisture intrusion and slows future cracking. You can drive on it the next day.
Free on-site estimates. We'll come to you anywhere in Orange County.
Repair if the slab is structurally sound and the damage is isolated. That's most cases. Replace if more than 30 to 40 percent of the slab is broken, if there's deep subgrade failure that won't hold under a new slab, or if the original slab was poured too thin (under 3 inches) for the use it's getting. We'll tell you honestly when replacement is the better long-term spend, even though it's a bigger job.
Both lift sunken slabs by injecting material underneath them. Mudjacking uses a cement-and-soil slurry pumped through 1.5-inch holes. It's cheaper but heavier (which can re-load weak subgrade) and the holes are visible. Polyjacking uses high-density polyurethane foam injected through 5/8-inch ports. It's lighter, sets in 15 minutes, the holes are nearly invisible after patching, and the foam doesn't wash out from irrigation or rain. We use polyjacking for most residential lifts.
Polyurethane crack injection on a properly routed crack lasts 10 to 20 years on a stable slab. Epoxy crack injection is structural, so it bonds the slab and lasts essentially forever as long as the cause of the original crack (settlement, root pressure) was addressed. The repairs that fail early are the ones where someone smeared caulk over an unrouted crack without cleaning it first. That's a 6 to 12 month repair at best.
Crack injection: foot traffic in 2 hours, vehicle in 6 to 8 hours. Polyjacking: vehicle traffic same day, the foam reaches full strength in 15 minutes. Saw-cut patch: 24 hours for foot traffic, 48 to 72 hours before driving on the patched area. Sealer cures in 4 to 6 hours and is rain-safe overnight. We give you specific times based on what we did and the weather.
Close, not perfect. Concrete from the 1970s has oxidized, weathered, and changed color over 50 years. New patch concrete starts out lighter and darkens over 6 to 12 months as it cures and weathers. We match texture (broom finish direction, stamp pattern) carefully, and we use integral pigment and surface tinting to get the patch as close as possible. Sealing the whole driveway after the repair helps even out the visual difference.
Yes, and they require more skill than plain gray concrete. We have the stamp mats and color hardeners to recreate common patterns (slate, ashlar, cobblestone, Roman seamless). Custom stamps may need to be sourced. Decorative repairs cost more per square foot than plain concrete repairs because of the matching work involved, but they save the entire decorative slab from replacement.
For in-kind repair on the private portion of the driveway, no permit is needed in most OC cities. Anything that touches the apron between the sidewalk and the curb is a different story. That portion is in the public right-of-way and requires an encroachment permit from the city public works department. We pull the permit when needed and handle the inspection scheduling. Cities like Newport Beach, Irvine, and Mission Viejo each have their own permit form and review timeline.
Concrete driveways do well with a penetrating siloxane or silane sealer every 3 to 5 years. The sealer blocks moisture intrusion (the main driver of cracking and spalling) and slows oxidation from UV. Asphalt driveways need a different product (a coal-tar or asphalt-emulsion sealcoat) every 2 to 3 years. Sealing immediately after a repair locks in the patch and evens out the visual difference between new and old concrete.
Three usual causes in OC. First, rebar corrosion, especially within a mile of the coast where chloride from salt air penetrates the slab and rusts the steel from the inside out. The expansion pops the surface off. Second, weak surface laitance from a slab that was over-troweled or had water added at the pour. Third, alkali-silica reaction in slabs poured with reactive aggregate, which we see occasionally in 1960s and 70s pours. The fix depends on the cause. Coastal spalling usually needs a partial replacement plus a chloride-blocking sealer. Surface laitance can be ground off and resurfaced.
Yes, and it's actually a better choice than mudjacking on clay subgrades. Expansive clay (common in Yorba Linda, Anaheim Hills, and the Mission Viejo foothills) swells when wet and shrinks when dry, which is why slabs over clay heave and settle seasonally. The polyurethane foam is light (4 to 6 lb/ft³) compared to a cement slurry (around 100 lb/ft³), so it doesn't re-load the weak clay underneath. The foam also fills voids without absorbing water, so it stays stable through seasonal moisture swings.
Based in Mission Viejo. Pick your city to see what we offer in your area.
No pressure. No obligation. Just an honest look at your floors and what's possible.